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GOAL: |
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(to look like this:) |
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PROJECT: |
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When I bought it,
Got this car without engine and that was perfect for my project since I already had engine,
I was looking for rust free car for almost a year and finally got one :) |
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Test fitting new parts,
since car had ZC hood and lights and I was buying SiR Mugen CR-X PRO II bodykit I had to buy SiR lights and hood,
then I bought T-bar from JDM CRX 1.5 T-bar and hood latch fitted perfect. |
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I made movable stand for CRX so I could totally reassemble it and do work on chasiss that had to be done,
stand was made strong enough so I lifted whole car on it and toke all parts off |
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Chasiss prepairing for stitch welding and roll cage,
I removed sealer with sharp chisel and angle grinder with mesh wheel,
also had to remove all sound deading material from inside and outside the car |
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Suspension and brake parts sandblasted and powdercoated (matt black) |
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FIA approved roll cage and stitch welded chasiss |
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PhotoShop colored stitch welds |
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parts arrived from UK, Desmond Regamaster EVO 15" wheels and glass top |
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more parts:
stainless steel braided brake hose, Megasquirt (changed my mind and will be buying AEMs parts),
motul oil, BuddyClub wheel lugs, header wrap, ES bush kit, aerocatch hood pins...
omni power parts: flat valves, titanium retainers and dual valve springs |
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gas tank:
cleaned, sandblasted and powdercoated in matt black |
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Honda OEM metal sills |
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MUGEN CR-X PRO II copy body kit
I was looking for genuine kit but since nothing came up for sale in 6 month I bought this one
(it turned out to be very bad idea, cause of very very poor quality :( ) |
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genuine MUGEN CR-X PRO II side skirts and door caps of JDM SiR
(since copy ones were in such a bad shape I decide to buy genuine parts) |
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glass top installed, Honda OEM metal sills mounted and spot welded winodws and door areas |
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finally got very hard to get genuine MUGEN CR-X PRO II spoiler |
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FIXING front bumper
(very poor quality on this mugen copy kit, so I decide to fix it and make mold and do better product) |
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• test fitting bumper, new mounts made, sides fixed with strapes so it's in line with wings |
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• you can see: big gaps in front lights area, holes in surface, bad lines etc |
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• fixing all lines and gaps, used tons of bondo on this bumper... |
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• bumper is ready for doing mold, all lines fixed, gaps are perfect etc |
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• and finally mold done :) |
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• all went nice, mold was strong, smooth and shiney. Wax it at least 4 times and got it ready for product,
all was fine until it was time to take product out of mold, thing was that gell coat and epoxi didn't want to dry totally
I had the same problem with mold but eventually it did dry but in case of product,
product got glued on mold and at the end both were ruined and since I already had date at paint guys place
I had to act quick. Ordered new replica bumper from UK now from another maker (BillB).
Luckily friend Dave (nominous on hondacrx.co.uk) from UK knows maker and got me new bumper ASAP.
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new bumper arrived on time from UK and I made it stronger with carbon fibers on places I thought it needed to be stronger |
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new parts arrived |
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Wilwood brake kit:
•4 piston caliper
•11" rotors
•havk pads
•steel braided brake lines |
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KW V3( v3 as variant 3) coilovers, fully adjustable |
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FULL RACE traction bar and SPOON copy mirrors (will be replaced with something lighter in future) |
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ENGINE that will go in CR-X (modiffied B16A2) |
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engine spec.: |
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PLAN:
• B18C JDM ITR engine 00'
• Hydraulic transmisson Y21
• ITR LSD
• ENDYN high CR pistons (82mm)
• TODA B intake and C exhaust cam shafts
• TODA timing belt (cambelt)
• Skunk2 pro series cam gears
• Omni Power titanium retainers
• Omni Power flat valves
• Omni Power dual valve springs
• ARP head, rod studs
• AEM EMS
• AEM Twin-Fire Ignition Modules
• AEM CDI Pencil Coil
• AEM Engine Position Module (EPM)
• Race technolgy DL1 and DASH2
• ITR oil pan
• Bisimoto 4-1 header
• Head modiffication (prepaired for racing - port, polished, valve job...)
• Crank shaft and flywheel fully modiffied lighten and balanced
• Oil pump modiffication
• DeVito stainless steel 2.5" race lightweight exhaust (0.8mm) mandrel band
• ITBs: Jenvey flange + Hayabusa ITBs
• H22 injectors
• HASport engine mounts
• HASport shift linkage
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Photos of engine (how it looked in civic) |
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TILTON pedal set |
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TAKATA Multi-Point Harness |
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KOYO radiator (ITR DC2 type) |
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Jenvey flange (B16A) + Hayabusa ITBs |
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AEM parts |
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I bought: Plug-N-Play Engine Management System (+ Uego) + Multi-Channel C2DI Twin-Capacitive Ignition Module + Wires |
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and I still have to buy: Engine Position Module (EPM) + 4 Pack Coil Kit, CDI Short Pencil, so this setup will be complete |
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Finally painted in "cappuccino" brown color |
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SKUNK2 parts |
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SKUNK2 and Full race parts installed |
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KW V3 coilovers installed and one not so good news, SiR hubs and wilwood brake kit won't work
(now I have to buy 1.6 16V hubs and renovate those, new bearings, new lower joints and again new ARP extended wheel studs) |
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Mugen MR5s will go on with spacers
and here we go again,
but now with 16V hubs, sanblasted, powdercoated, cink coated front parts, new bearings, new lower joints and new ARP studs that I'm waiting for to arrive from States... |
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*** after aprox. 4 years...off stand and back on wheels *** |
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nothing much changed, just renovated 16V hubs and willwoods test fitted... |
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Finally we began to rebuild the engine for this car
First we had to clean it, cause it was out of the car for 3-4years and now we have to take everything apart and messure all tolerances
and fit new parts (gaskets, main and rod bearings, all parts that need to be replaced when doing proper rebuild)
...one tease photo: when we clean it and before we took out parts
(crank and pistons) |
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An electronic group is almost complete with the new parts from RACE TECHNOLOGY !
(Added one photo of how the AEM and RACE TECHNOLOGY parts will wire up with "AEM ECU adapter" from race technology.)
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Dash was cut on sides to pass the pipes from roll cage and test fitted in car (with orig. cluster)
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I got new engine for this car since the B16A2 had busted crank bearings and marks on crank so it was not worth to fix it,
so this new engine is B18C from JDM DC2 ITR (year 2000) and will get all the parts that I can use from B16A2 pistons, head etc.
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Finally,
Got crankshaft from "shop", it's even better than I imagined, it's done exactlly how I wanted in the end, both sides are knife edged with lots of material removed, all ears are modiffied not just some, since both sides are lightened those balls were removed and screws were installed in.
It's all done with CNC machine and it's done with 100% accuracy, program done before so lots of hours went into this part to be as perfect as it can be, we decide not to cut ends of ears (square design - had that on B16A2 engine) cause of inertia and better balance (no need of massive balancing)...
Enough talk, let the picture say what "we" (my friend) did:
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Now I'll install F1 cromolly flywheel (from TegiwaImports) and N1 pulley and take it to balance "shop" so it'll all be balanced as group... |
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Also have these to install or to be installed in future.
Got J's racing RTA uniballs and mfactory groupbuy Extended Ball Joints.
It's just shame that I bought and installed brand new honda oem ball joints before.
And about j's racing parts I have original honda RTA bushes in box and on RTAs right now are ES bushes so I'll drive with ES bushes for a while and then switch to j's racing uniballs and see with which set up car drives better and if both would be weird I can still switch to OEM parts...
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Finally got "new" rear suspension home > Very Happy
Bought second hand/new Civic 96-00' KW V1 rear suspension that has linear springs on back,
so I'll put these springs on and see how it'll work, at least those have linear springs and I can put car lower to ground, cause my KW V3 with stupid proggressive springs won't do that.
But now I must do some kind of adapter so lower fi coil/spring will sit nice in crx top hat, there is nothing on this car that is just plug&play always something to do extra...$#!%&
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Crankshaft + other parts were taken to balance
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Fingers crossed it'll all be perfect as it should be, they'll make extra effort cause they were told it'll run 10-11k rpm so they'll run it higher than normal crankshafts.
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Got one of the most desired parts home...
Carrillo Pro A rods (total weight 407g)
BIG thanks goes to www.theboombopshop.com for good price and all the help provided (great customer service)
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*** And also good news on the crank, it needs min balansing so it was great job done on CNC ***
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